Catena Zapata | Malbec High Mountain Vines 2022

CATENA ZAPATA | Malbec | High Mountain Vines | 2022
malbec

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The story of Catena Zapata is the story of modern argentinian wine. Founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena, the winery was revolutionized generations later by his grandson, Nicolás Catena Zapata. Often hailed as the pioneer of high-altitude viticulture in Argentina, Nicolás dedicated himself to proving that Mendoza could produce wines that can rival the world’s finest reds. He focused on identifying the ideal microclimates for the Malbec grape variety, planting vineyards at soaring elevations where others thought grapes couldn’t ripen. This relentless pursuit of quality culminated in a global renaissance for argentinian wine. Today, under the guidance of the fourth generation, Dr. Laura Catena, the winery continues its legacy of research and innovation. In 2023, Catena Zapata’s Angélica Vineyard was named the ‘World’s Best Vineyard’ – a testament to their unwavering dedication to expressing the soul of their unique terroir.
Today we are going to review a genuine, high-altitude malbec wine from Mendoza, which is Argentina‘s flagship wine region – Malbec High Mountain Vines 2022 by Catena Zapata. Known for its plump, dark fruit flavors and smoky finish, malbec wines have been adored for centuries, especially by the royal houses of England and Russia. With elegant notes of blueberry, plum, tobacco and hints of violets, modern malbec offers a great alternative to its higher priced siblings (merlot, cabernet sauvignon or syrah). Although the malbec grape variety originated in the famous Cahors region of France, Argentina proved that there’s more to malbec than just value, as it can offer an unmatched complexity and elegance, if produced in an expressive new-world style, with a nuanced and juicy, fruit-forward character.

The grapes for this wine were sourced from three famous vineyards, all planted at high altitude: the Gualtallary vineyard (1450 m elevation), famous for its alluvial soil rich in gravel and limestone, with rounded rocks at the bottom; the Lunlunta vineyard (920 m elevation), with its alluvial soil rich in loamy clay, with rounded rocks at the bottom; and the El Cepillo vineyard (1090 m elevation), also with soil of alluvial origin, rich in loam-sandy sub-soil with thick calcareous layers and rounded rocks at the bottom. In order to preserve the rich varietal characteristics of the malbec grapes and those delicate, terroir-driven notes, the wine has been aged for a period between 11 and 13 months in French oak barrels (new, second and third fill), with additional time of bottle ageing before it was deemed ready for the market release.

The mighty Mendoza – Argentina’s largest and most renowned wine region, lies in the high-altitude desert at the foothills of the Andes, where vineyards are planted at altitudes between 600 to 1500 meters, thus benefiting from intense sunlight, cool mountain nights, and an arid climate moderated through Andean meltwater irrigation. Its alluvial soils, rich in sand, gravel, and stones with excellent drainage, naturally limit vine vigor and promote concentrated flavors, while pockets of limestone in top sub-regions, like Uco Valley and Maipú Valley, add a distinctive mineral edge to the wines. Though best known for producing the world’s finest expressions of malbec, Mendoza unique terroir also yield outstanding cabernet sauvignon, syrah, bonarda, and chardonnay. The region’s combination of desert purity, mountain influence, and diverse soils, produces wines of power, freshness, and remarkable elegance.
color: deep purple color
clarity: hazy indigo shades

In the glass, the wine presents a deep purple color, nearly impenetrable at its core, hinting at its immense concentration and youthful vigor. This profound depth is beautifully edged by hazy, yet vibrant, indigo shades at the rim – a textbook Malbec appearance.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: ripe

On the first nose, this wine unveils a rich and savory nose with a ripe fruit character that is quite typical for the high altitude Malbec grape variety from Mendoza. The foreground is dominated by a powerful wave of black and blue fruits – think blueberry, blue plum, blackberry, and hints of prune and cassis. This vibrant fruit core is elegantly interwoven with pronounced savory accents of old leather and iron, which adds a layer of rustic sophistication. Complementing these primary aromas are rich hints of baking spices, like cloves and nutmeg. As the wine breathes and opens up, the background reveals delicate earthy layers: crushed granite, mineral-rich marl, clay, and dark loam. These are beautifully integrated with subtle oaky-spicy nuances of toasted oakwood and sweet tobacco, further enhanced by elegant hints of violets and anise that add an extra dimension of aromatic complexity and finesse.

On the palate, the wine reveals a remarkably crisp and youthful mouthfeel that balances the richness of its fruit with delicate, savory-earthy undertones. This is a crisp wine with a voluptuous mouthfeel, feeling both ample and lean, providing a structural elegance. It feels dry, with exuberant acidity that provides incredible freshness and vitality to the backbone of the wine. While there is quite a touch of alcoholic warmth, it feels well-integrated, adding depth and structure without overpowering the fruit. The tannins are ripe and velvety, coating the mouth with a pleasing texture and a firm, yet elegant, grip. The flavor profile mirrors the complex nose, offering a symphony of black and blue fruits complemented by earthy-savory and spicy tones. The finish is long and persistent that culminates in a crispy-tart aftertaste. It is a pleasantly-tart, ample, and lean single-varietal Malbec, delivering overwhelming hints of local terroir and a palate that speaks clearly of its high-altitude origins.

maturity: developing | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a quite authentic expression of a high-altitude Malbec. Rustic and slightly wild, boasting a savory-delicate aromatic profile that is both intriguing and deeply satisfying. The wine has a rich texture, feeling nicely structured and beautifully balanced, showcasing hints of its diverse local terroirs and that undeniable Malbec opulence. While it demonstrates amazing varietal typicity, skillfully mixing harmony with nuance, what this wine currently lacks is some complexity that many top-rated Malbec can display. However, its restrained use of oak (almost untraceable) ensures that the rich fruit nuance and aromatic depth remain at the forefront. This wine is still very much in its developing phase, too youthful to reveal its full potential today. We highly recommend cellaring it for another 2 to 3 years, during which time its elements will integrate further, tannins will soften, and additional layers of complexity and finesse will emerge, promising an even more captivating experience.

Given the wine’s exuberant acidity and velvety tannins, we would suggest to pair it with a duck breast, accompanied by a reduction of tart cherries and star anise. The richness and gamey notes of the duck will be beautifully counterbalanced by the wine’s vibrant acidity, while the wine’s fine-grained tannins will meld seamlessly with the protein, creating a harmonious texture. In the same key, the subtle hints of star anise in the sauce will echo the delicate anise notes in the wine, and the tartness of the cherries will draw out the wine’s fruit character. Alternatively, a blue rare fillet mignon served with wild mushroom gratin and a sprinkle of smoked paprika would also create a profound resonance. The earthiness of the mushrooms and its subtle smokiness will complement the wine’s savory and spicy background, elevating the entire dining experience to a new level of hedonistic pleasure. Enjoy!
CATENA ZAPATA | Malbec | High Mountain Vines | 2022
variety: malbec
country: Argentina
region: Mendoza
rating: 92.8

The ‘High Mountain Vines’ concept from Catena Zapata is a direct result of decades of pioneering research into Mendoza’s diverse micro-terroirs. Dr. Laura Catena, with her medical background, established the Catena Institute of Wine, which has been at the forefront of studying soil composition, altitude, and climate to understand their precise impact on grape quality. This scientific approach, combined with winemaking traditions passed down through generations, allows them to meticulously identify and blend specific ‘lots’ from their high altitude vineyards to create a ‘complete’ Malbec that embodies the best of Mendoza.

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