DOMAINE LA PRUT | Private Collection | Saperavi | 2023
saperavi

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Domaine La Prut is a winery born from a fascinating fusion of austrian winemaking discipline and Moldova’s ancient viticultural heritage. Owned by Austrian oenologist Wilfried Pfanner, a third-generation descendant of the renowned Pfanner family, whose name is synonymous with quality and craftsmanship, the winery embodies a deep respect for tradition while embracing modern oenological knowledge. Every bottle from Domaine La Prut, crafted under the skilled hands of winemaker Valerian Scutelnic, expresses the individuality and values of the Pfanner family, focusing on reinterpreting traditional varieties through the authentic lens of the Codru region’s terroir, creating wines that speak of their origin with richness and depth.

Today we are are going to review a single-varietal saperavi wine from the Codru wine region of Moldova – Private Collection Saperavi 2023 by Domaine La Prut. Saperavi (which translates into english as color or dye) is Georgia’s main red grape variety and a teinturier grape variety, which means that the flesh of the berry is also dark, thus the resulting wines are very deep in color. The resulting wines are high in natural acidity, with firm tannins, which makes them respond well to ageing. Although Georgia is the birthplace of saperavi, there are a handful of other countries that also grow and produce high-quality saperavi wines, Moldova being one of them. Some even go as far as to affirm that the saperavi wines from Moldova are better that the ones from Georgia, but we all understand that it’s just a matter of taste. Due to the deep color of saperavi wines, in its homeland in Georgia, some wineries label their wines as black wine instead of red wine.

This particular wine was made of saperavi grapes sourced from the heart of the Codru IGP – a wine that reflects a modern approach to this ancient grape, balancing its inherent richness with a structural elegance that leans closer to a more austere georgian style. After meticulous hand-harvesting, the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, followed by additional bottle ageing, allowing it to integrate its components and begin its journey towards full complexity.

The Codru wine region has a moderate continental climate and a diverse array of loamy and clay soils, providing an ideal environment for grape growing. The altitude and microclimate of this wine region boasts moderate rainfall and is influenced by the Carpathian cool winds as well as the Black Sea breezes. The region is characterized by its diverse soil composition, which provide excellent drainage and minerality, while the warm summers and cold winters ensure that the grapes receive ample sunlight, encouraging ripening, thus contributing to the wine’s retention of flavors, resulting in a rich flavor profile.

color: deep purple color
clarity: hazy indigo shades

In the glass, the wine reveals a captivating, very deep and opaque purple color, almost impenetrable at its core, testament to the Saperavi’s teinturier nature. Towards the rim of the glass, hazy indigo shades emerge, indicating its youthful vibrancy and concentration.

intensity: rich & expressively-fruity
fruit character ripe

The nose is a rich and expressively-fruity tapestry, immediately captivating with a ripe and slightly jammy fruit character, adding an intriguing layer of generosity. In the foreground, a vibrant explosion of black fruits emerges, showcasing notes of blackcurrant, blackberry, black plum, dark cherry, and black mulberry, interwoven with a sweet spice medley of nutmeg, cloves, anise, and a hint of peppercorn, all beautifully complemented by rich hints of concentrated black fruit jam. As the aromas evolve, the background unveils a sophisticated interplay of oaky elements, featuring toasted oakwood and tobacco, seamlessly integrated with an earthy backbone of black soil dust and crushed granite. Elegant, savory layers of iron, leather, and iodine add a complex, almost ancient nuance, contributing to the wine’s profound aromatic depth and making for a truly multi-layered olfactory experience.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: medium | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy & crisp

On the palate, the wine delivers a pleasantly-seedy mouthfeel, leading into a crisp and multi-layered experience. The texture is slightly ‘granular,’ providing an intriguing astringent sensation that balances the wine’s inherent richness. It presents as a fruity-expressive, ample, and firm Saperavi wine, showcasing good varietal typicity while leaning closer to a Georgian style, being slightly more austere and delicate, oriented more toward structure than sheer nuance. The wine tastes bone dry, with a bright acidity that is notably lively and energetic, providing excellent freshness. There is a nuanced touch of alcoholic warmth, contributing to the wine’s robust character. The tannins are firm yet well-integrated, providing a persistent, seedy grip that is characteristic of young Saperavi. The crisp and seedy aftertaste lingers, hinting at the wine’s potential for complexity.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 to 4 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good potential

Overall, this is a quite youthful, still developing, terroir-driven Saperavi wine with great potential. It feels finely structured, combining rich fruit nuance with aromatic depth and a noble, savory-delicate touch. While it feels rich in texture and nicely balanced, the palate is a tad rough in its current state, presenting as youthful and slightly angular. It boasts hints of local Codru terroir and that unmistakable Saperavi expressivity, yet it is quite terroir-driven despite its fruity forwardness. What this wine currently lacks is a bit more finesse and elegance on the palate, as it is still in its developmental phase. This Saperavi is too youthful to be fully enjoyed today; therefore, we highly recommend cellaring it for another 3 to 4 years. This additional bottle ageing will allow its firm tannins to soften, its rustic edges to round up, and its myriad layers of complexity to fully manifest themselves, promising a more harmonious and refined tasting experience.

This complex and well structured wine calls for dishes of equal stature. A perfect complementary pairing would be a pan-seared duck breast with a rich plum or cherry reduction. The wine’s vibrant acidity will beautifully cut through the richness of the duck, while its black fruit notes will harmoniously echo the flavors of the sauce, creating a seamless and elevated dining experience. Alternatively, for a truly congruent pairing, consider a pairing it with a rare filet mignon, perhaps with a peppercorn crust or an earthy mushroom sauce. The firm, seedy tannins of the wine will be delightfully softened by the tender texture and fat of the beef, while the wine’s subtle earthy and savory notes will find a magnificent echo in the dish, creating a powerful and memorable gastronomic synergy. Cheers!

DOMAINE LA PRUT | Private Collection | Saperavi | 2023
variety: saperavi
country: Moldova
region: Codru
rating: 92.7

Domaine La Prut is owned by Austrian oenologist Wilfried Pfanner, whose family has a long-standing legacy in winemaking. This unique austrian-moldovan collaboration brings a disciplined approach to winemaking, prioritizing quality over quantity. The winery is nestled in the Codri Reservation, one of Moldova’s most important protected natural areas, known for its rich biodiversity and ancient forests, providing a unique microclimate for viticulture.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!