CORCOVA | Lecram | 2017
cabernet sauvignon | merlot | syrah

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The story of Corcova Winery is built around friendship, vision, and viticultural resurrection. Its origins trace back to Prince Antoine Bibescu, a distinguished diplomat and litterateur, and his esteemed wife, Lady Asquith. In the early 20th century, they embarked on a visionary project, cultivating vineyards in Corcova and Jirov and establishing a state-of-the-art winery in 1910. The modern estate was founded in 2005 by Michel Roy and Șerban Dâmboviceanu as a venture with a quite challenging goal: to revive the historic vineyards and cellars of Prince Anton Bibescu, which had fallen into ruin after decades of neglect. This commitment to heritage, combined with a forward-thinking approach, defines their current philosophy, which is about preserving a legacy, expressing the unique ‘gout du terroir’ of Corcova wine region, and crafting wines that speak of history, distinction, and passion.

Today we are going to review a very rare wine from the Mehedinti-Corcova sub-region of Oltenia, which is situated in southern Romania – Lecram 2017 by Corcova. This is the winemaker’s flagship wine, representing an old world style blend with a distinctive modern twist – a classic Bordeaux blend, made only in the best years – a wine that is rightly considered amongst the best romanian red blends. This wine is a harmonious blend of three french grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, where cabernet sauvignon forms the wine’s main body and structure, merlot adds up-front richness and builds a more voluptuous palate, while syrah creates a more dynamic finish and enriches the flavor profile with black fruit notes, thus enhancing overall complexity. The final wine has been aged for 12 months in a combination of french and romanian oak barriques, with additional bottle ageing time before it was ready for the market release.

The grapes for the 2017 vintage were carefully cultivated in the D.O.C. Mehedinți-Corcova region of Oltenia – a terroir renowned for producing wines of significant character. The names ‘Lecram‘ and ‘Ocsebib‘ hold a delightful secret, born from an extraordinary friendship between the literary giant Marcel Proust and the aristocratic Prince Antoine Bibescu. These are clever inversions of their names – ‘Marcel‘ and ‘Bibesco‘ – a playful code that highlights the intimacy of their bond.

The Mehedinti wine region is situated in the Carpathian foothills, benefiting from the moderate continental climate influenced by the nearby Danube river. The landscape, marked by rolling hills and valley terraces, provides excellent drainage and ample sunlight, crucial for grape cultivation. The hilly landscapes of Mehedinti area, are characterized by warm summers and relatively mild winters, which form almost ideal conditions for ripening grapes. Summers, though generally warm, are mitigated by cool nights, thanks to the proximity of dense forests and mountains. This diurnal temperature variation is vital for preserving natural acidity while allowing the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness and develop complex aromatic compounds. The soils here, part of the larger Getic Piedmont (specifically the Motru Piedmont), exhibits a varied lithological structure and rich minerality. This diverse soil composition provides excellent drainage and a broad spectrum of nutrients, which impart a specific mineral character to the wines produced here.
color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy garnet shades at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a captivating deep ruby color, immediately hinting at its concentration and robust character. As one observes its depths, hazy garnet shades emerge at the rim – a subtle yet expressive indication of the wine’s thoughtful evolution and its current stage of maturity.

intensity: rich & oaky-elegant
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

The olfactory journey begins with a rich and expressive oaky nose, characterized by a ripe to dehydrated fruit character. In the foreground, an intricate tapestry of dried fruits unfolds with remarkable clarity: notes of dried dark cherry, prune, and bitter cherry interweave seamlessly with lighter touches of dried cranberry, all underpinned by a foundation of blackberry and blackcurrant. These fruit profiles are beautifully complemented by a lively array of spices, including nutmeg, cloves, and a subtle hint of peppercorn, further uplifted by delicate hints of lavender. As the bouquet evolves, the background gracefully reveals rich oaky undertones of toasted oakwood and sweet tobacco, seamlessly blending with a complex earthy foundation reminiscent of crushed granite, pencil lead, marl, and loam – all enriched by velvety layers of vanilla and anise, creating an intensely multi-dimensional and alluring aromatic tapestry.

sweetness: dry | acidity: medium+ | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: bitter-seedy

On the palate, the wine showcases a distinctive bitter-seedy character, indicative of a firm and slightly rough mouthfeel that speaks of its structural integrity. This is a full-bodied Bordeaux-styled blend that asserts its presence with a bone-dry mouthfeel. While robust, it is accompanied by a slightly flat acidity that, though present, offers less vibrant lift than might be expected, contributing to its heavier mouthfeel. An overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth is contributing significantly to the wine’s robust and assertive presence. The tannins are pleasantly-bitter and grippy, providing a textured and seedy aftertaste that lingers with remarkable persistence, emphasizing the wine’s structural rather than overtly finessed approach.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a bold, extracted, and intensely concentrated wine, showcasing a raw, untamed power that defines its unique personality. It feels heady and bold, with a rich spicy accent, primarily focused around a core of dehydrated black fruits, thus delivering a compelling old-world appeal dressed in new-world clothes. While it presents a robust character, it currently exhibits a touch of sharpness and astringency, leaning more towards a rustic charm. The wine lacks the harmony and finesse often found in the most esteemed Bordeaux blends, yet it compensates handsomely with an undeniable personality and a remarkably robust structure. This is a wine that prioritizes powerful and textural grip over elegance. Currently in its prime, it is ready to be enjoyed today, delivering its full array of flavors, though it holds potential for further, albeit modest, development within the next 3 to 5 years. It stands as one of Romania’s notable blends, a wine imbued with history behind its label, and will particularly appeal to those who appreciate a more assertive, textured, and structurally driven style over outright smoothness.

Given its firm structure and seedy tannins, the wine demands a dish that can stand up to its intensity and help temper its assertive qualities. Our suggestion would be to pair it with a pan-seared veal flank steak, served with a luscious green peppercorn sauce. The richness and tenderness of the veal, combined with the creamy, piquant notes of the sauce, will beautifully meld with the wine’s bold character, allowing its bitter tannins to be softened and its alcoholic warmth to integrate more smoothly, creating a harmonious and balanced experience. Enjoy!
CORCOVA | Lecram | 2017
variety: cabernet sauvignon | merlot | syrah
country: Romania | Oltenia
region: Mehedinti-Corcova
rating: 94.3

Lecram is a homage paid to the friendship between Prince Antoine Bibescu and Marcel Proust. This charming homage speaks volumes about the historical depth and personal touch embedded in every bottle from Corcova. The fact that the winery’s cellars were originally built by Prince Anton Bibescu, whose family’s legacy is so intimately tied to this intellectual and artistic connection, makes the this wine a tangible piece of history and a testament to enduring friendship.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!