KISS GÁBOR | Signal | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2022
cabernet sauvignon

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Gábor Kiss is a winemaker with a relentless pursuit for refinement and an individualistic approach to winemaking. His initial success came in 2006 with the groundbreaking Cabernet Franc named ‘Code’ – a name that comes from the philosophy that a great wine encapsulates a unique ‘code’ of region, grape, and winemaker’s craft. Code was followed by ‘Enigma’ and ‘Missing One’ – each wine further cementing his reputation as a visionary winemaker. His unwavering commitment to quality and authentic expression of the Villány terroir led him to embrace a minimal-intervention philosophy, applying spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, avoiding over-extraction, and judiciously employing oak ageing. This approach has allowed him to redefine expectations for Villány – a region historically known for its robust, high-alcohol reds, by crafting modern wines that stand out for their finesse, freshness, and sophisticated character.
Today we are going to review a very intriguing, single-varietal cabernet sauvignon wine that comes from the warm Villány, which is Hungary‘s most famous wine region for red wines – Signal Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 by Kiss Gábor. Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s most recognized grape variety that can be found all over the world in a wide range of climates and regions. Originating in Bordeaux as a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, it has spread to every wine-producing area, adapting to an extraordinary range of climates, producing wines of remarkable structure and longevity. Cabernet Sauvignon is also a late ripening grape variety, which means that it is best suited for warm climates, where it is capable to produce wines that can reach into realms of perfection, where they are rarely followed. It serves as the backbone of the famous Bordeaux blends, while also offering some of the world’s finest single-varietal wines, especially popular in regions such as Napa Valley, Coonawarra, Margaret River, Maipo Valley, Stellenbosch, and Bolgheri. Powerful yet refined, Cabernet Sauvignon has earned its reputation as the undisputed king of noble red grape varieties.

This particular wine is crafted from grapes sourced from the Boczor, Gesztenyés and Hajdús vineyards, planted with selected late ripening French clones, specifically chosen for their inherent ability to produce highly concentrated wines with high acidity, even in the warm Villány climate. The winemaking process is focused on minimal intervention: hand-picked grapes, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts (which preserves their natural character and the terroir-driven flavours), followed by 18 months of maturation in 500-liter French oak barrels (new and at second-fill, to impart complexity without overpowering the fruit), with additional time of bottle ageing before the wine was deemed ready for the market release.

Nestled in southern Hungary, Villány is one of the country’s most prestigious wine regions. Benefiting from a warm and dry climate with mediterranean influences, the region provides excellent conditions for cultivating red grape varieties. The long and sunny growing season ensures rich concentration in the fruit, while cool nights help preserve freshness and balance. The soils here are primarily clay and loam, with limestone and loess sub-soil, offering both good moisture retention and mineral depth that encourage healthy vine growth and complex flavor development. This unique terroir yields structured wines that with remarkable depth. While Cabernet Franc is the region’s champion grape variety, producing elegant and complex wines, Villány is also famous for its Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy & vivid ruby shades

In the glass, the wine displays a deep and opaque ruby color, hinting at immense concentration. At the rim, hazy and vivid ruby shades gently linger – a testament to its unfiltered nature and youthful vibrancy.

intensity: rich & wild
fruit character: ripe

The first impression on the nose is rich and delicate, revealing an wild and untamed aromatic profile with an abundance of ripe fruit. The foreground bursts with a vibrant medley of red and black fruits: bitter cherry, cranberry, redcurrant, and blue plum, all complemented by the more intense notes of blackcurrant and blackberry. These fruit aromas are interwoven with a lively spice component, showcasing hints of red pepper, nutmeg, and peppercorn, further enriched by nuances of anise that lend a compelling intrigue. As the wine breathes, the background unfurls, revealing well integrated oak notes suggestive of sun-dried oakwood and the subtle essence of oaktree bark. Earthy undertones of pencil lead, dust, and clay ground the wine to its Villány terroir, while subtle hints of eucalyptus and a touch of nail polish add ethereal layers of complexity and an almost captivating dimension, suggesting some untamed volatile acidity.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fair
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: tart

On the palate, the wine is showcasing a quite nuanced, rich, and slightly tart mouthfeel. This is a wine crafted in a low-intervention style, showcasing a pleasantly astringent character that adds to its authentic, rustic charm. It feels dry, although with quite some hints of unfermented residual sugar, with a vibrant flavor profile, driven by an exuberant acidity that lends incredible freshness and vitality. A nicely integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth and body, providing a substantial presence without harshness. The tannins are ripe, offering a firm yet evolving grip that supports the wine’s powerful structure, hinting at its potential for further development. This is a crisp, round, and ample wine, with a lingering, crispy-tart aftertaste that invites for yet another sip. This is not your typical Cabernet Sauvignon – it embraces its wild identity, feeling firm and slightly heady, with a subtle earthy touch underneath, while being remarkably restrained in its use of oak.

maturity: developing | needs more time | drink now or within the next 3 to 4 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good ageing potential

Overall, this is a bold declaration of identity and terroir, showcasing the winemaker’s distinctive vision for the Villány terroir. This voluptuous, untamed, and slightly tart wine stands apart from the typical Cabernet Sauvignon profile, reflecting the winemaker’s philosophy for low intervention. Its wild nature, while delivering compelling fruit nuance and oak-derived richness, currently presents as slightly tart and a bit astringent, leaving behind the conventional firmness and complexity often associated with top-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, feeling instead authentically raw and characterful in its youth. At times, it evokes the softer, more supple notes of a Merlot, yet it steadfastly retains the structural firmness inherent to Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a wine that bravely champions its unique identity and vibrant expression. Currently in its developing stage, this Cabernet Sauvignon demands patience. While enjoyable today, it will benefit from an additional 3 to 4 years of bottle aging – a period that will allow its components to fully integrate, softening the firm tannins, harmonizing its elements, and developing further layers of complexity.

With its wild and untamed character, this wine calls for a pairing that can embrace its intensity. We suggest a classic hungarian wild boar stew (‘Vaddisznópörkölt‘) served with creamy polenta or traditional ‘nokedli‘ (dumplings). The richness of the slow-cooked wild boar, infused with paprika, onions, and often a touch of red wine, would beautifully complement the wine’s red and black fruit profile and savory notes, while the wine’s robust tannins and exuberant acidity will cut through the richness and fat of the meat, creating a truly authentic and culinary experience. Egészségére!
KISS GÁBOR | Signal | Cabernet Sauvignon | 2022
variety: cabernet sauvignon
country: Hungary
region: Villány
rating: 92.2

Gábor Kiss made his mark on the wine stage in yearly 2006 with his first major wine – Code Cabernet Franc, named for his belief that a wine carries a unique ‘code’ of terroir. The next big wine was Enigma Merlot released in 2009, and the iconic Missing One released in 2017. His wines are focused on a more modern style that challenges the region’s traditional reputation for purely high-alcohol and full-bodied reds, instead aiming for vibrancy of flavour and freshness.

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