PROTOS | Protos’27 | Ribera del Duero | 2022
tempranillo

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The story of Bodegas Protos begins in 1927 when eleven childhood friends, united by their shared passion for viticulture dared to dream beyond the rustic wines of their beloved village of Peñafiel in Ribera del Duero. Protos means ‘first’ in greek, and Bodegas Protos was the very first winery in Ribera del Duero. The winery’s dedication has garnered international acclaim, being awarded ‘Winery of the Year’ in by Wine & Spirit magazine, cementing their legacy in spanish winemaking.

Today we are going to review a single varietal tempranillo wine from Spain‘s renown Ribera del Duero region – Protos’27 Ribera del Duero 2022 by Bodegas Protos. Tempranillo is a spanish grape variety that for a long time was ignored by the outside world as a more of a rustic grape variety of strictly local appeal. Today, tempranillo is recognized as a noble grape variety that can make firm, bold and age-worthy wines. It is the main grape variety of red Rioja wines and is known under several aliases: tinto fino or tinto del país in the Ribera del Duero region, tinta de toro in the Toro region, cencibel and valdepeñas in Valdepeñas and Manchuela regions, ull de llebre and ojo de liebre in Catalonia and finally tinta roriz and aragonês in Portugal. When the right tempranillo clone is grown on the right spot of land, without excessive yields and with utmost care in the vineyard, tempranillo can produce incredibly age-worthy wines. In Ribera del Duero this grape variety is known as tinto fino and tinto del país, and is vinified in a more modern, concentrated style, with a firm phenolic extract and an intense flavour profile.

The grapes for this wine were sourced from low yielding old vines, planted on loam and clay-rich sandy soils, with poor organic located in the Peñafiel village of the Valladolid province. Here, tempranillo yields wines of very deep color, robust structure, and intense fruit concentration, often vinified in a more modern, expressive style compared to its Rioja counterparts. The Protos'27 wine is a homage to those 11 visionaries who, in 1927, founded the Bodegas Protos. This wine represents a synergy between the winery’s rich history, and its forward-looking commitment to producing high quality wines that respect the land while adapting to modern winemaking practices.

After the harvest, the grapes underwent pre-fermentative cold maceration to enhance aromatic extraction and flavour complexity. Fermentation was carried out in stainless steel vats with selected indigenous yeasts, with a 20 days prolonged maceration to extract more color and texture. In order to soften the tannins and impart extra structure and aromatic sophistication, the wine matures for 16 months in new french oak barrels, followed by an additional 12 months of bottle ageing to allow for further integration and refinement.

Ribera del Duero, located along the Duero River in northern-central Spain, is defined by a harsh continental climate with hot, dry summers, very cold winters, and a pronounced diurnal temperature range. Vineyards are generally planted at high elevations, often between 700 and 1,000 m above sea level, where cool nights slow down ripening and help preserve acidity despite the intense summer heat and sunlight. The region’s soils are predominantly limestone-rich clay, sandy loam, and alluvial deposits, often containing layers of gravel and stones that provide good drainage while retaining enough moisture to support the vines through the dry growing season. Tempranillo (known locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País), dominates the region’s landscape and produces deeply coloured and very concentrated red wines with nuanced dark fruit, firm tannins, and muscular structure. The combination of altitude, extreme climate, and diverse soils imparts Ribera del Duero’s wines a characteristic balance between power and freshness, with the finest examples showing remarkable depth, complexity, and great ageing potential.

color: very deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: vibrant ruby hues at the rim

In the glass, the wine presents a very deep and opaque ruby color, indicative of its concentration and youth. This rich core is framed by vibrant and noble ruby shades at the rim of the glass, hinting at the wine’s intensity and aromatic complexity.

intensity: rich & fruity-expressive
fruit character: ripe & overripe

The olfactory journey reveals a complex tapestry of ripe and overripe fruits The foreground erupts with a medley of dark fruits, with notes of blackcurrant, aronia berry, bitter cherry, prune, blackberry, and mulberry. These rich tones are complemented by a generous layer of oak-derived notes, delivering enticing aromas of toasted oakwood, coconut, vanilla, tobacco, and a subtle hint of anise. Further enhancing this fruity-oaky symphony are nuanced touches of dried figs and dates, adding a luscious depth. As the wine breathes, a sophisticated background layer emerges, showcasing earthy and terroir-driven notes of charcoal, pencil lead, dust, granite, and slate, nicely intertwined with herbaceous hints of dried herbs and thyme. A gentle spicy kick of peppercorn, cloves, and nutmeg, along with sweet nuances of liquorice and subtle dusty undertones, completes this remarkably complex and inviting bouquet.

sweetness: bone dry | acidity: high  | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy-crisp

On the palate, the wine delivers a firm and bold mouthfeel that speaks of its extracted and concentrated character. This is unmistakably a wine crafted in a clear-cut new world style, prioritizing fruit expression and nuance. It feels bone dry, driven by an exuberant acidity that provides impressive lift, yet overshadowed by an overwhelming touch of alcoholic warmth. The tannins are ripe and very astringent, contributing to a grippy and assertive mouthfeel that leads to a seedy-crisp aftertaste. This is a full-bodied wine that tastes firm and slightly heady, with a subtle earthy touch lingering beneath its fruit and oak layers. While it exudes power, depth, and a richness, particularly from its pronounced oak influence, it currently lacks the desired harmony and finesse. In its youthful state, it presents as somewhat angular and rough profile – a reflection of its robust structure.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a complex and well-structured wine that is mixing power with nuance – the epitome of a modern-bred Tempranillo with an unmistakable new world appeal, delivering fruit nuance and oak-derived richness. While tasting tannic, heady, and seedy on the palate, with a firm structure focused more on fruit expression rather than terroir-driven delicacy, the wine still offers impressive depth and nuance. The pronounced use of oak is clearly evident, indicating a wine that is all about impact. This is a wine in its developing phase, feeling a bit disjointed, astringent, and slightly rough on the mouthfeel. It lacks the harmony and finesse that are expected from the wines of such appeal. We firmly believe this is a wine designed for long-term evolution rather than immediate enjoyment, therefore we would recommend cellaring it for at least 5 to 7 more years, allowing its tannins to soften and integrate into the body more seamlessly, revealing the wine’s true potential.

Given its robust structure and rich dark fruit notes, this wine demands a food pairing that can stand up to its intensity and complement its nuanced character. A fantastic congruent match would be a traditional slow-roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic, perhaps a ‘Cordero Lechal‘ (roast suckling lamb) typical of the Ribera del Duero region. The richness of the lamb would be beautifully complemented by the wine’s firm tannins and alcoholic warmth, while the savory notes of the meat would resonate with the wine’s earthy and spiced undertones. For a more memorable experience, consider a smoked duck breast with a cherry reduction sauce, as the gamey richness of the duck and the slight sweetness of the reduction would create an exquisite harmony with the wine’s dark fruit notes and spicy richness, enhancing its complexity and leading to a delightful symphony of flavors and textures. Cheers!
PROTOS | Protos’27 | Ribera del Duero | 2022
variety: tempranillo
country: Spain
region: Ribera del Duero
rating: 94.7

Protos’27 is a tribute to the year 1927, when 11 local winemakers from the Peñafiel village embarked on an oenological journey with the goal to create truly exceptional wines, and to put the then overlooked Ribera del Duero region on the global wine map. Their pioneering spirit led to the establishment of the very first winery in Ribera del Duero, an act that literally changed the course of spanish wine history and the fame of Ribera del Duero.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!