SAUSKA | Cabernet Franc | Siklós | 2021
cabernet franc

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Sauska is a tale of two terroirs, a modern winery with deep roots in two of Hungary’s most prestigious wine regions: the volcanic soils of Tokaj and the sun-drenched slopes of Villány. The story begins with Krisztián Sauska – a hungarian-american entrepreneur who returned to his homeland with a vision to create world-class wines. He established his wineries with a no-compromise philosophy, investing in state-of-the-art technology while maintaining a profound respect for tradition and terroir.
Today we are going to review a single varietal cabernet franc wine from Villány, which is Hungary‘s most famous wine region for red wines – Cabernet Franc Siklós 2021 by Sauska. The ‘other cabernet’ grape, cabernet franc is the parent grape for the two of the most famous international grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It is less intense and softer than cabernet sauvignon and it ripens much earlier, while it is also much more resistant to winter cold and spring frost than merlot. One thing that makes cabernet franc unique is that it can’t hide its nature – it has always been a bit more peppery, more savory and leaner than its pedigree children, due to the higher levels of pyrazines (which is an aromatic organic compound) inherited by the variety’s DNA. In Villány, cabernet franc sheds its lean and peppery character, developing a unique richness and complexity thanks to the region’s warm climate and mineral-rich soils. This trait has led to the creation of the prestigious ‘Villányi Franc‘ appellation in 2014 – a premium category reserved for 100% cabernet franc wines that meet strict quality standards.

Today’s wine is made with 100% cabernet franc grapes, sourced from the winery’s most prized vineyards: Csukma and Makár. These neighboring sites are located in the colder area of Siklós – a microregion renowned for its specific conditions that influence grape development. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the cabernet franc grapes, the winemaking was extremely meticulous: the grapes underwent a brief pre-fermentative cold maceration before fermentation in stainless steel tanks, followed by another 28 days of skin contact. The wine was then gently pressed and aged for 17 months in 225-litre French oak barrels, mostly at second-use, with a small percentage of new oak – a winemaking technique designed to enhance overall complexity without overshadowing the varietal’s distinct character.

Nestled in southern Hungary, Villány is one of the country’s most prestigious wine regions. Benefiting from a warm and dry climate with mediterranean influences, the region provides excellent conditions for cultivating red grape varieties. The long and sunny growing season ensures rich concentration in the fruit, while cool nights help preserve freshness and balance. The soils here are primarily clay and loam, with limestone and loess sub-soil, offering both good moisture retention and mineral depth that encourage healthy vine growth and complex flavor development. This unique terroir yields structured wines that with remarkable depth. While Cabernet Franc is the region’s champion grape variety, producing elegant and complex wines, Villány is also famous for its Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Villányi Franc is the epitome of a terroir-driven Cabernet Franc wine. The Villány wine region has proven to be ab ideal microclimate for the cultivation of the Cabernet Franc grapes. With strong mediterranean influences, it is one of the warmest wine regions in Hungary, famous for its loess topsoil over a limestone bedrock. The abundance of sunshine ensures optimal ripeness and concentration in the grapes, while the loess provides excellent water retention and warmth, whereas the limestone imparts a distinct minerality and elegance to the wines. Unlike the cooler Loire Valley, where Cabernet Franc is often lighter and more herbaceous, or the warmer Bordeaux/Toscana pair, where it’s typically a blending partner rather a single varietal wine, Villány allows the variety to shine at its full potential, often producing a voluptuous and elegant expression with ripe tannins and a complex, spicy character that is nothing short of world-class. Known as Hungary’s benchmark region for Cabernet Franc wines, Villányi Franc consistently delivers robust yet refined expressions that stand shoulder to shoulder with most of world’s great terroirs.

color: deep & opaque garnet color
clarity: hazy & noble garnet hues

In the glass, the wine presents a deep and opaque garnet color, hinting at its concentration and richness. This core is beautifully framed by hazy garnet shades at the rim of the glass, which suggest both, the wine’s youthful vibrancy and its evolving maturity.

intensity: rich & pronounced
fruit character: ripe & dehydrated

On the nose, this wine delivers a rich and pronounced aromatic profile, immediately captivating with its ripe and dehydrated fruit character, with an expressive, oaky-elegant nuance. The foreground is a vibrant tapestry of dark fruits, led by generous notes of prune, cassis, blackberry, aronia berry, bitter cherry, and mulberry. These vibrant fruit aromas are complemented by prominent oak influences, unveiling whispers of vanilla, coconut, sweet tobacco, cloves, and nutmeg – all enlivened by intriguing accents of anise and a touch of peppercorn. As the bouquet unfurls, the background reveals distinct earthy undertones of dust and pencil lead, enriched by savory nuances of barnyard, new leather, brown olive, iron, and a delicate hint of iodine. Elegant hints of thyme, bay leaf, and sage further enhance the wine’s complex and multi-layered aromatic profile.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high  | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & heady

The palate immediately impresses with a crisp, warm, and heady sensation, defined by a pleasantly bitter-seedy mouthfeel and a nuanced, oak-driven character. This is a round and slightly opulent Cabernet Franc wine that is mixing varietal expression with its distinctive terroir footprint. The wine feels dry, invigorated by exuberant acidity that imparts freshness and vitality. A noticeable yet nicely integrated alcoholic warmth contributes to its firm and robust body, creating a satisfying and enveloping presence without harshness. The tannins are firm and seedy, offering a structured and astringent grip that contributes to the wine’s robust personality. The finish is long and crisp, culminating in a heady aftertaste that lingers beautifully, reinforcing the wine’s nuanced yet delicate nature.

maturity: in its prime | drink now or within the next 2 to 3 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this is a round and seedy Cabernet Franc wine with an appealing bitter astringency on the palate. It skillfully combines vibrant fruit expression with savory delicateness, showcasing the terroir-driven footprint of the Villány region. While exhibiting a delicate and slightly opulent character, its primary focus leans towards fruit expression rather than nuance. Compared to other Cabernet Franc wines from the region, this one might lack some complexity or structure, yet it offers a rustic and seedy charm that speaks about varietal character and terroir. This is a blueprint Cabernet Franc from Villány that allows both, varietal identity and terroir to shine. Rustic, crisp, and nicely balanced, it perhaps lacks a bit of harmony and finesse found in the region’s best examples, feeling slightly heady on the palate. The wine is currently in its prime form and can be enjoyed today or cellared for the next 2 to 3 years. This wine is clearly designed to celebrate varietal expression and its unique terroir, reminiscent in style of a Cabernet Franc-based Super Tuscan wine, embodying a blend of accessible delicacy and an untamed, authentic spirit.

With its robust profile, pronounced oak influence, and savory undertones, this wine demands a food pairing that can stand up to its intensity. Consider serving it alongside a hungarian goulash, slow-cooked to perfection with smoked paprika and root vegetables. The wine’s dark fruit and earthy undertones will harmonize beautifully with the rich, savory broth and tender beef, while its crisp acidity will cut through the dish’s richness. For a truly ‘wow-effect’ consider pairing it with a venison stew braised in red wine and juniper berries. The gamey notes of the venison will find an exquisite complement in the wine’s savory and earthy nuances, while the seedy tannins will be softened by the meat, creating a deeply satisfying and memorable win tasting experience. Egészségére!
SAUSKA | Cabernet Franc | Siklós | 2021
variety: cabernet franc
country: Hungary
region: Villány
rating: 94.2

A fascinating aspect about the Sauska winery is its dual identity, operating in two completely different hungarian terroirs. While the Villány estate produces powerful and age worthy reds, the  Tokaj estate is renowned for its sweet Aszú wines and dry Furmints. This allows the winery to showcase the incredible diversity of hungarian wine under a single, quality-driven brand – a feat very few wineries can claim.
© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!