ODDERO | Barbera d’Alba | Superiore | 2022
barbera

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Poderi e Cantine Oddero is a historic name in piedmontese winemaking, located in La Morra in the heart of the Langhe region. For generations, the Oddero family has been dedicated to crafting exceptional wines that authentically reflect their unique terroir. Today, this legacy is carried forward by Maria Cristina and Maria Vittoria – daughters of Giacomo Oddero, who blend deep respect for tradition with a forward-thinking approach. Their combined vision is to produce wines that reflect of their place origin, showcasing the inherent beauty and complexity of Piedmonte wine region through viticulture and traditional winemaking.
Tonight we are going to review a very intriguing single-varietal barbera wine from its homeland, the famous Piemonte wine region in northern Italy – Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2022 by Poderi e Cantine Oddero. Barbera is one of Italy’s most important grape varieties and the beloved sibling of the mighty nebbiolo, that produces the famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Unlike nebbiolo, barbera wines are known for their deep ruby color, vibrant acidity, and silky tannins, making them approachable while still young. This grape variety has been cultivated in Italy for centuries, with historical references dating back to the 13th century, and it thrives in a range of terroirs, especially suited for hilly sites, rich in clay or silt-based soils. While barbera doesn’t command the same prestige as nebbiolo, modern viticulture and winemaking have elevated its reputation, oak aging for example, adds depth and structure to its naturally juicy, cherry-driven profile. Though not as overtly terroir-expressive as nebbiolo, barbera is still capable to reflect its place of origin, with bright acidity in cooler sites, and rich fruit expressions in warmer vineyards.The barbera grapes are sourced from vines with an average age of about 50 years, located in the two historic vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and La Morra, both under of the Barbera d’Alba D.O.C. – an appellation within the Langhe sub-region, where it benefits from optimal growing conditions. The winemaking follows traditional methods: fermentation in big, open top oak vats, maceration for about 10 days in stainless steel tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, which softens the wine’s naturally high acidity. The wine then matures for 16 months in large french oak casks (50-60 hl), that allows the subtle oak nuances to integrate seamlessly into the wine while preserving the grape’s inherent freshness, allowing the wine to develop even greater complexity while maintaining its vibrancy and savouriness.

The Piedmont (or Piemonte) wine region, situated in north-west of Italy, at the foothills of the Alps, is one of the most famous wine regions, renowned for its noble red wines and deep-rooted traditions. The region features a continental climate with cold winters, warm summers, and frequent fog (especially in the Langhe and Monferrato areas), which contributes to slow and even grape ripening. Its hilly terrain, diverse exposures, and calcareous marl and clay soils create ideal conditions for high-quality grape growing. Piedmont is home to the famous nebbiolo – the grape behind the iconic Barolo and Barbaresco wines, known for their tannic structure and complex, earthy depth. The region also excels with barbera and dolcetto, which are raising in popularity with each passing season. This region is also the birthplace of Moscato d’Asti – a lightly sparkling sweet wine that conquered hearts all over the world.The Langhe sub-region, situated in the rolling hills south of the Tanaro River, is the home to the prestigious Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. Its continental climate brings warm, dry summers, cold winters, and frequent autumn fog, which allows the grapes to ripen slowly while preserving their natural acidity and developing complex aromas. The landscape is dominated by steep, vineyard-covered hills, with elevations and exposures varying considerably from one site to another. Soils are composed of calcareous marl, clay, and sandstone, with subtle geological differences creating distinct expressions across the vineyards. Nebbiolo is the region’s champion variety, producing wines of remarkable structure and longevity, while Barbera and Dolcetto offer more approachable expressions of the same terroir. The combination of altitude, fog, varied exposures, and mineral-rich soils gives Langhe wines their characteristic balance of power and elegance.

color: deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy & vibrant purple hues

In the glass, the wine presents a deep and opaque ruby color, with vibrant purple shades towards the rim of the glass, confirming the wine’s varietal appearance.

intensity: rich & savory-delicate
fruit character: ripe & vibrant

On the nose, the wine is rich and savory-delicate, unfolding with a multi-layered and complex aromatic tapestry that balances ripe fruit nuances with intriguing rustic notes. In the foreground, a generous medley of red fruits takes center stage, featuring red cherry, cranberry, redcurrant, red plum, and the accents of blackberry, wild cherry, and aronia. These fruit characteristics are intricately woven with a pronounced savory-delicate nuances, with notes of old leather, a hint of barnyard funk, musky undertones, subtle game, and the distinct touch of brown olive, further complemented by delicate suggestions of iron and iodine, speaking to the wine’s origins. As the aroma evolves, the background unveils a blend of spice and oak-derived notes, including sun-dried oakwood, red pepper, juniper, cherry tree wood, and hints of tobacco, anise, and cloves. Beneath these layers, delicate terroir-driven elements emerge, reminiscent of marl, loam, clay, pencil lead and charcoal, all gracefully intertwined with elegant hints of tree sap and bay leaf, culminating in an aromatic journey of remarkable depth and authenticity.

sweetness: bone dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: good
finish: lasting | aftertaste: crisp & pleasantly-seedy

On the palate, the wine delivers a crisp and savory-elegant mouthfeel, characterized by a pleasantly seedy texture that speaks to its old-world delicateness alongside varietal richness. It displays a pronounced rustic accent, feeling bone dry and enlivened by bright acidity, which is a hallmark of Barbera, providing an energetic backbone that lifts the fruit and maintains freshness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth and body without ever being intrusive, contributing to the wine’s robust structure. The tannins are ripe and pleasantly seedy, offering a firm but smooth grip that frames the palate beautifully and contributes to its lasting impression. The finish is long, culminating in a crisp and seedy aftertaste that lingers, leaving an impression of savory elegance and profound varietal expression.

maturity: developing | needs time to evolve | drink now or in the next 3 to 5 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is the epitome of a pure-bred piedmontese Barbera wine – a tribute dedicated to grape variety and terroir. This is a wine that masterfully delivers the vibrancy of fruit alongside the authentic, rustic touch of its local origins, striking a perfect balance between expressive fruit and refined terroir influence. It is a well-structured, complex, and delicate Barbera, offering a rich and firm palate underscored by a nuanced and expressive aromatic profile that prioritizes varietal identity and terroir authenticity over sheer opulence. This wine unfolds in two compelling acts: initially ample and voluptuous, it then reveals a firm and robust character culminating in a savory-elegant finish. The use of oak is almost untraceable, allowing the grape’s intrinsic qualities and the nuances of the Langhe micro-region to shine unimpeded. While still developing, it can certainly be enjoyed today, yet it holds great promise for further evolution, therefore consider cellaring it over the next 3 to 5 years, during which time it would develop hints of tertiary aromas, adding even greater aromatic complexity.

Given the wine’s vibrant acidity and intriguing savory-rustic notes, it calls for dishes with complementary richness and flavor depth. A sublime pairing would be a classic piedmontese tajarin al ragù (thin egg pasta with a rich meat sauce). The wine’s exuberant acidity will beautifully cut through the richness of the pasta and the intensely flavorful meat sauce, while its ample body and ripe red fruit profile will harmoniously complement the savory, slow-cooked character of the dish. The wine’s fine-grained tannins will provide a robust structure to stand up to the hearty elements in the dish, creating a synergistic tasting experience that celebrates the very best of piedmontese cuisine. Alternatively, consider a succulent slow-braised pork shoulder with wild mushrooms and polenta – the wine’s delicate elegance and earthy undertones will find a perfect resonance with the tender meat and umami notes of the dish. Enjoy!
ODDERO | Barbera d’Alba | Superiore | 2022
variety: barbera
country: Italy
region: Piedmont | Langhe
rating: 95.2

Poderi e Cantine Oddero manages approximately 35 hectares of property, with a significant 16.5 hectares dedicated to cultivating the Nebbiolo grape variety for their acclaimed Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The family also cultivates about 6 hectares of hazelnut trees, producing the prized Nocciola Piemonte IGP – a testament to the region’s diverse agricultural heritage and its commitment to local specialties. The new Production Regulations (Disciplinari di Produzione) for Barolo and Barbaresco now officially codify Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGAs), designating prized geographical areas for Nebbiolo cultivation. Many of Oddero’s historical vineyard properties fall under this designation, with their names having graced the labels of their Barolo and Barbaresco wines since the 1980s, highlighting their long-standing recognition of these exceptional crus vineyards and their deep connection to the local terroir.

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