RUFFINO | Riserva Ducale | Chianti Classico | Riserva | 2022
sangiovese | cabernet sauvignon | merlot

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The story of Ruffino started back in 1877 when cousins Ilario and Leopoldo founded their venture in Pontassieve. Their dedication to quality quickly garnered recognition, earning their first gold medal at the Milan Wine Exhibition in 1881. A pivotal moment arrived in 1890 when the Duke of Aosta, captivated by whispers of a hidden gem in Ruffino’s cellars, visited the winery. Impressed by its Chianti wines, he bestowed upon Ruffino the esteemed title of royal supplier. This royal patronage inspired the creation of Riserva Ducale – a flagship wine first crafted in 1927, bearing an iconic label that celebrates this enduring legacy. Today, Ruffino’s vision encompasses seven prestigious estates across Tuscany’s most celebrated appellations, from Chianti Classico to Montalcino and Bolgheri, all united by a philosophy that harmonizes centuries-old tradition with modern innovation to truly express the essence of Tuscan terroir.Today we are going to review a quintessential italian classic from one of the Italy‘s most iconic wine regions, the mighty Tuscany – Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva 2022 by Ruffino. Chianti wines can be made with grapes sourced from a vast region within Tuscany – from the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, to the flatter plains towards the Mediterranean Sea, but, in order to taste some of best expressions of sangiovese-based Chianti wines, one needs to look into higher elevations, towards the original boundaries of the Chianti region, called Chianti Classico, where wines are made in smaller quantities, with lower yields and therefore are of higher quality. The best wines from Chianti Classico will be labelled ‘Riserva’ or ‘Gran Selezione’.

Today’s wine is a harmonious blend composed of 80% sangiovese, 10% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% merlot, where sangiovese forms the wine’s main body and structure, cabernet sauvignon adds color depth, tannins extract and builds a more robust mid-palate, whereas merlot adds up-front richness and builds a leaner and a more dynamic finish, thus enhancing the wine’s overall complexity. All the grapes were sourced from the prestigious Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG area, with the 2022 vintage benefiting from a favorable growing season, characterized by a hot summer with low rainfall, thus creating ideal weather during harvest that allowed the grapes to achieve optimal ripeness and aromatic concentration. As a ‘Riserva‘, the wine adheres to strict aging requirements, having been aged for 27 months in total: sangiovese ages for 12 months in large slavonian oak casks, while cabernet sauvignon and merlot matures in small french barriques and big oak tonneaux for the same time. The wine is then blended and ages for another 12 months in stainless steel tanks and concrete vats, with an additional 3 months of bottle aging before it was deemed ready for the market release.

Toscana wine region has long boasted an impressive reputation in the world of great wines, earning its prestige as one of the most promising and creative production areas in the world of wine as a result of a number of forward-thinking producers that experimented with international grape varieties and modern winemaking techniques. Toscana (or Tuscany) is home to some of the world’s most famous wines – the mighty ‘Super Tuscan‘ wines.

The Chianti wine region is renowned for its diverse terroir, characterized by rolling hills, very warm summers, and mild winters, providing ideal conditions for grape growing. The soils composition differ vastly, from rocky and well-drained soils around the region’s highest hills, to fertile clay-based soils at lower altitudes, supporting various root systems that enhance vibrant fruit expression. Those diverse microregions allow the winemakers to experiment with different plots in order to build a wine that truly reflects their vision or wines that are capable to reflect the footprints of local terroirs.
The Chianti Classico DOCG is the historic heart of the Chianti wine region, located between Florence and Siena and recognized by its famous Gallo Nero symbol. The region is characterized by steep hills, higher elevations, and a cooler climate than many surrounding sub-regions, with warm summers, mild winters, and significant diurnal temperature variation that helps preserve acidity during ripening. Its soils are ranging from galestro and alberese to limestone, marl, and clay, with the poor rocky sub-soils on the hillsides producing more structured wines. Sangiovese is the region’s champion grape that forms the foundation of Chianti Classico, producing wines with bright acidity and firm tannins, making Chianti Classico one of Tuscany‘s most important regions for terroir-driven red wines.
color: medium-pale garnet color
clarity: hazy & noble copper hues

In the glass, the wine presents a medium-deep garnet color, with delicate, hazy copper shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: rich & savory
fruit character: ripe & underripe

The aromatic profile is a symphony of richness and delicacy, presenting a ripe to underripe fruit character with a nuanced savory complexity. The foreground boasts with a vibrant medley of red fruits: redcurrant, cranberry, and sour cherry. This fruit core is beautifully complemented by savory nuances of iron, iodine, old leather, and brown olive. Elegant hints of sun-dried oakwood, tobacco, and a touch of tree sap add an extra layer of sophistication. As the wine breathes, the background reveals a sophisticated tapestry of spicy notes, including red pepper, nutmeg, anise, and cloves. These undertones are balanced by an earthy and herbal foundation of clay, loam, and marl, intermingled with the fragrant essence of dried mediterranean herbs. Whispers of wormwood, nettle, and a hint of balsamic vinegar complete this intricate aromatic journey.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high  | alcohol: high | tannin: high  | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: seedy & heady

On the palate, this wine reveals a firm and pleasantly-seedy texture, delivering a nuanced, heady-astringent mouthfeel. It displays a pronounced savory accent that harmonizes with a touch of earthy delicacy, making it a textbook example of a Chianti Classico wine that proudly speaks of its local terroir and varietal expression. The wine tastes dry, with bright acidity that provides remarkable liveliness and freshness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds extra depth and body without overwhelming the palate. The tannins are pleasantly seedy and slightly astringent, providing a firm and grippy backbone that not only structures the wine but also cleanses the palate. This culminates in a heady and pleasantly-seedy aftertaste that is both persistent and invigorating.

maturity: developing | needs more time | age for at least 3 to 5 more years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, this is a crisp, complex, and nicely structured wine – the epitome of a modern Chianti Classico that showcases a pronounced terroir-driven footprint. It exhibits a bold and grippy character, yet maintains an inherent delicacy and savory complexity that allows the varietal character of the Sangiovese grape and its blending partners to shine. This is a fantastic wine blend that seamlessly delivers both power and elegance, with its focus firmly set on fruit expression and the unique nuances of its terroir rather than overt richness or opulence. While it possesses immense appeal and a multi-layered profile, it might intentionally forgo some of the opulent finesse found in other Chianti blends. This wine is all about variety and terroir – savory, delicate, crisp, and seedy, offering a vibrant mouthfeel alongside just a subtle touch of austerity. The oak influence is almost untraceable, providing a hint of richness without overshadowing the wine’s core identity. This is a wine that is still in its developing phase, ready to be enjoyed today, but with significant potential to evolve over the next 3 to 5 years.

Given its bright acidity, firm tannins, and savory-earthy aromatic profile, this wine would make an exceptional companion for a range of hearty tuscan dishes. For a truly classic pairing that enhances both the wine and the meal, consider serving it with pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale (wild boar ragu). The wine’s vibrant acidity will cut through the richness of the slow-cooked, gamey ragu, while its savory notes of old leather, tobacco, and dried herbs will beautifully complement the robust, earthy flavors of the wild boar. The firm, seedy tannins will provide a satisfying contrast to the tender texture of the meat, creating a harmonious and deeply satisfying wine tasting experience that transports you straight to the heart of Tuscany. Cheers!
RUFFINO | Riserva Ducale | Chianti Classico | Riserva | 2022
variety: sangiovese
country: Italy
region: Toscana | Chianti Classico
rating: 94.1

Ruffino’s Riserva Ducale has a remarkable history, having been continuously produced since 1927. Its very name, ‘Ducale’ is a direct tribute to the Duke of Aosta, who, in 1890, was so impressed by Ruffino’s wines that he appointed them as suppliers to the royal household. Interestingly, this wine is one of the very few in the world that was granted the right to use the ‘Riserva’ mention in its name long before the official classification category existed, showcasing its pioneering status.
© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!