A.GERE | Solus | Kopár Dűlő | 2022
merlot

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Attila Gere visited Tuscany in 1998 when Tibor Gál was the head winemaker of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, and there he had the chance to sample the legendary Masseto from the barrels. The wine impressed him so much, that from that day, he decided to make a single varietal, single vineyard merlot wine in Villány. The sub-mediterranean climate of the Villány region was identified as the perfect spot for his new project. Kopár vineyard became the chosen place, being the southernmost vineyard in Hungary – a warm area, enhanced by the stony-rich soils that radiates heat back to the vine during the night, thus creating a linger growing season that allows the grapes to mature slowly deep into the autumn, resulting in highly concentrated and elegant wines with bright acidity.

Today we are going to review a single-vineyard and single-varietal merlot wine from Villány – Hungary‘s warmest and most famous wine region for red wines – Solus Kopár Dűlő 2022 by Gere Attila Winery. Merlot is usually regarded as the underdog to the highly priced cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc varieties, but make no mistake, merlot wine is first class, as it is more versatile and ripens earlier than both cabernet grapes, responds well to oak ageing and can be grown in both, cool climate and warm climate regions with the same success. A natural crossing of cabernet franc and the obscure magdeleine noire des charentes, merlot has become the dominant red grape in Bordeaux, particularly on the right bank, where it is at the core of the greatest wines of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. Some of the world’s greatest wines are made from merlot, from Château Pétrus, which demonstrated that this grape variety is capable of extraordinary concentration, complexity and longevity when planted on the right terroir and handled with utmost precision, to famous icons such as Masseto from Bolgheri, that has showed to the world how this grape variety can express itself and its origin in the minutest of detail. Perhaps merlot‘s greatest strength is its remarkable versatility, as it can be soft and immediately seductive, powerful and opulent, or refined and intensely complex, proving that this grape variety can, under the right conditions, produce wines that rank among the greatest in the world.

Solus (which translated from latin means “unique” and which also contains “sol”, meaning “sun“) is made only in the best vintages with 100% merlot grapes that are sourced from the iconic Kopár vineyard (Dűlő), which is the southernmost hill (Szársomlyó) of the Villány wine region and also of the entire country. The 2022 vintage was remembered as a drought year, yielding grapes of remarkable concentration and depth. In order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the merlot grapes, the winemaking was extremely meticulous: cold soaking to enhance the vibrancy of the fruit, followed by extended cold maceration, with alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation in large wooden vats. The final wine is then aged for 16 months in new, 300-litre Larus hungarian oak barriques, followed by at least one year of bottle ageing. Before starting the elevage process for the whole lot, Attila Gere tested separately many different coopers in order to understand which barrel is best suited for the Solus wine, thus creating a specifically tailored barrel, named Larus, that is made of carefully selected, extra tight grain Quercus Petraea oakwood that was seasoned a minimum of 24 months and is uniquely toasted based on a combination of temperature, time and water, which reduces the barrel impact and increases the length and vibration of the flavours in the resulting wine.

Nestled in southern Hungary, Villány is one of the country’s most prestigious wine regions. Benefiting from a warm and dry climate with mediterranean influences, the region provides excellent conditions for cultivating red grape varieties. The long and sunny growing season ensures rich concentration in the fruit, while cool nights help preserve freshness and balance. The soils here are primarily clay and loam, with limestone and loess sub-soil, offering both good moisture retention and mineral depth that encourage healthy vine growth and complex flavor development. This unique terroir yields structured wines that with remarkable depth. While Cabernet Franc is the region’s champion grape variety, producing elegant and complex wines, Villány is also famous for its Kékfrankos, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

color: very deep & opaque ruby color
clarity: hazy-elegant crimson hues

In the glass, the wine presents a mesmerizingly deep and opaque ruby color, hinting at its profound concentration, with hazy crimson shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: pronounced & oaky-expressive
fruit character: overripe

The aromatic journey begins with a pronounced oaky-expressive intensity, complemented by an overripe fruity accent. This wine unveils a multi-layered and complex aromatic profile, masterfully balancing the opulent richness of fruit with sophisticated oak-derived notes. In the foreground, an enticing medley of dark fruits emerges, with notes of cassis, bitter cherry, prune, blackberry, black mulberry, and aronia. These dark fruit expressions are interwoven with rich oaky tones of sweet tobacco, toasted oakwood, cloves, and vanilla, further enhanced by elegant touches of dark berry fruit jam and subtle hints of violets. As the wine opens, a compelling background layer unfolds, revealing spicy undertones of peppercorn, nutmeg, juniper, anise, and red pepper. These are grounded by intriguing earthy hints of pencil lead, granite, slate, and dust, all harmoniously lifted by delicate nuances of mediterranean herbs and subtle terroir-driven influences.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: high | tannin: high | balance: fine
finish: lasting | aftertaste: crisp & seedy

The palate is characterized by a tannic and grippy mouthfeel that transitions into a pleasantly-seedy texture. This is a bold Merlot wine that masterfully marries power with elegance, offering a nuanced fruity-expressive accent that captivates the senses. The wine is unequivocally dry, upheld by a bright, energetic acidity that provides a lively counterpoint to its richness. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds depth without imposing itself, while the grippy, fine-grained tannins provide a firm, structured backbone, promising exceptional longevity. The wine feels remarkably rich and full-bodied, unfolding a multi-layered and complex palate. The journey culminates in a crisp and pleasantly-seedy aftertaste, leaving a lasting impression of refined intensity.

maturity: developing | drink now or age for another 3 or 4 years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

Overall, Solus stands as the epitome of a modern-bred, new world style Merlot wine – bold, firm, rich, and remarkably nuanced. It is a tribute dedicated to the grape variety, showcasing an extracted and elegant expression that we consider one of the finest Merlot wines we have tasted so far. While it delivers the opulence of fruit and aromatic depth with a generous (though not unrestrained) use of oak, it also hints at the local terroir, albeit prioritizing fruit expression over delicate terroir-driven finesse. This wine feels incredibly rich and full-bodied, offering a multi-layered and complex palate. It is very well structured, complex, and rich – a wine that is still developing, it can certainly be enjoyed today in its youthful brilliance, but this is a wine with great potential for bottle ageing, suggesting that a cellaring period of another 3 to 4 years will allow it to evolve further, revealing even greater complexity and depth, making it a true benchmark for Villány Merlot.

With its bold structure and rich fruit profile, this wine calls for a culinary partner of equal stature. A complementary pairing would be a slow-braised lamb shank with a rich red wine reduction and root vegetable purée. The wine’s bright acidity will beautifully cut through the richness of the lamb, while its firm, fine-grained tannins will complement the succulent texture of the meat. The dark fruit, spicy oak, and earthy notes in the wine will harmoniously resonate with the savory depth of the braised lamb and the earthy sweetness of the vegetables, creating an unforgettable tasting experience that elevates both the dish and the wine. Egészségére!

A.GERE | Solus | Kopár Dűlő | 2022
variety: merlot
country: Hungary
region: Villány
rating: 95.1

For seven generations, the Gere family has been a cornerstone of hungarian winemaking, respecting traditions while embracing innovation, with Attila Gere – a visionary winemaker who has played a pivotal role in establishing Villány’s reputation for world-class red wines. The winery is now guided by Andrea Gere, whose expertise and vision were recognized in 2025 when she was appointed president of the Pannon Wine Makers Guild. With decades of dedication, the Gere winery has become synonymous with crafting exceptional Cabernet Franc-based wines, often considered the region’s signature grape variety.


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