LA BOLLINA | Ventola | Gavi | 2023
cortese

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La Bollina wine estate is nestled within the historic Gavi DOCG area in Serravalle Scrivia. It boasts a rich lineage, having served for centuries as the residence of the Marquises Figari of Genoa. The estate spans over 120 hectares of high-altitude vineyards and ancient chestnut woods and is dedicated to producing local wines, with a primary focus on Gavi n a pursuit of excellence and quality. A pivotal moment for La Bollina arrived with the expertise of oenologist Andrea Bernardini – a young technician acclaimed for his work with top-tier producers. His arrival spurred significant improvements across all their wines.Today we are going to review a characterful, single varietal cortese wine from its homeland, the famous Piemonte wine region in northern Italy – Ventola Gavi 2023 by La Bollina. Cortese is one of Italy’s most distinguished indigenous white grape varieties, best known as the grape behind the Gavi wines from the hills of southeastern Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria. Although its origins are ancient, cortese gained recognition for its ability to produce elegant wines a vibrant fruit character, bright acidity and a subtle mineral touch. The grape is naturally vigorous and capable of generous yields, but careful vineyard management and lower crop levels allows to create more complex wines with depth and structure. While most of Gavi wines are fermented in stainless steel to preserve the grape’s inherent freshness, lees ageing can add extra texture and aromatic sophistication. Beyond Gavi, cortese is grown in other parts of Piemonte, including the hills of Monferrato and the Tortona, and can also be used to produce sparkling wines. Its most compelling expressions come from the hillside vineyards within Gavi DOCG, where the combination of soils, vineyard exposures and proximity to the Ligurian Sea results in wines of remarkable finesse. At its finest, Gavi is considered as the white monarch among Piemonte‘s wines, often compared to the Grand Cru whites from Burgundy for its inherent finesse and complexity.This single-varietal wine is crafted 100% from cortese grapes sourced from the prestigious Gavi DOCG area (also known as Cortese di Gavi), where the white grape varieties are grown exclusively on marly-clay soils on south-west slopes, while the red grape varieties are grown on the red soil of the hills near Novi Ligure and mainly face south. The wine was created from grapes that achieved a slight over-ripening, contributing to its sweet and dehydrated fruit character. The winemaking is nothing short of excellence: manual grapes selection, short maceration, soft pressing, and static settling, followed by alcoholic fermentation. While most of the wine ferments in stainless steel tanks (60%), 40% of the wine completes fermentation in small French barriques, where the wine ages for six months on fine lees (the dead yeast cells that are left over from the fermentation process). During lees ageing, the wine is regularly stirred – a process called bâtonnage – a winemaking technique designed to enrich the wine’s aromatic complexity, gaining in body and developing an unctuous and luxurious texture on the mouthfeel.

The Piedmont (or Piemonte) wine region, situated in north-west of Italy, at the foothills of the Alps, is one of the most famous wine regions, renowned for its noble red wines and deep-rooted traditions. The region features a continental climate with cold winters, warm summers, and frequent fog (especially in the Langhe and Monferrato areas), which contributes to slow and even ripening of the grapes. Its hilly terrain, diverse exposures, and calcareous marl and clay soils create ideal conditions for high-quality grape growing. Piedmont is home to the famous nebbiolo – the grape behind the iconic Barolo and Barbaresco wines, known for their tannic structure and complex, earthy depth. The region also excels with barbera and dolcetto, which are raising in popularity with each passing season. This region is also the birthplace of Moscato d’Asti – a lightly sparkling sweet wine that conquered hearts all over the world. Piedmont is also home to a diverse range of white varieties such as cortese, arneis, erbaluce, favorita, and timorasso.
The Gavi DOCG (also known as Cortese di Gavi), located in the southeastern part of Piedmont near the Ligurian Apennines, is one of Italy’s most renowned white wine appellations. Its climate combines continental influences with milder conditions brought by the nearby Ligurian Sea, while the surrounding hills and elevation contribute to cooler nights and preserve natural acidity during ripening. The soils vary across the appellation, with limestone-rich marl, clay, sandstone, and alluvial deposits shaping the character of individual vineyard sites. Cortese is the defining grape variety, producing dry white wines marked by fresh acidity, citrus notes, white flowers, and a characteristic mineral touch. Gavi wines are generally light to medium-bodied, with a clean palate and a crisp finish, although wines from selected sites can develop greater texture and complexity with bottle age. The appellation also includes the prestigious Gavi del Comune di Gavi designation, referring to wines produced within the commune of Gavi itself.

color: deep yellow color
clarity: bright topaz-yellow hues

In the glass, the wine presents a truly captivating sight, displaying a deep yellow color that shimmers with bright topaz-yellow shades at the rim of the glass.

intensity: nuanced & expressive
fruit character: dried & dehydrated

On the nose, the wine reveals a very fragrant, nuanced, and expressive nose, with a dried and dehydrated fruit character elegantly interwoven with a subtle mineral touch. The foreground is dominated by a lush medley of orchard fruits, including apple, nashi pear, mirabelle, apricot and nectarine, which beautifully evolve into a rich profile of dried fruits like dried quince, dried apple, dried pear and dried mango. Sweet notes of honey, maple syrup, beeswax, honeycomb, and honeydew melon emerge, harmoniously complemented by elegant oak-derived hints of sun-dried oak, cloves, and fresh oakwood. In the background, refreshing citrus notes of meyer lemon, pomelo, white grapefruit, and sicilian orange provide a vibrant counterpoint, seamlessly blending with delicate floral undertones of acacia, orange blossom, honeysuckle, elderflower, and jasmine. Further complexity is added by subtle nutty notes of almond, hazelnut, walnut and cashew, all underpinned by a delicate herbal-mineral whisper of hay, chalk, and seashell hints, creating an aromatic tapestry that is both inviting and profoundly intricate.

sweetness: off dry | acidity: high  | alcohol: high | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp & sweet

On the palate, this wine delivers a rich and expansive experience, marked by a crisp and oily mouthfeel that truly sets it apart. The wine offers a remarkable textural depth, showcasing a touch of salty minerality that underscores its regional authenticity. It is a textbook Gavi, yet one that boldly explores the limits of varietal character, presenting an intriguing late-harvest oxidative touch that speaks of complexity rather than age. Its crisp acidity provides vibrant freshness, balancing the inherent softness from the slightly over-ripened grapes. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds to its roundness, while subtle oak-derived polyphenols lend structure and a pleasing grip, contributing to the wine’s overall architecture. The harmony between the wine’s residual sweetness, crisp acidity, and warm alcohol is exceptional, creating a seamless flow across the palate. The finish is medium, leaving a lingering, crispy-sweet aftertaste.

maturity: in its prime | drink today or within the next 12 months
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality

All in all, this is a textbook expression of Cortese grape variety, standing as the epitome of a fully developed Gavi wine. It is fragrant, round, complex, and well-structured, showcasing a pronounced dehydrated fruit character that contributes to its unique appeal. With its touch of  residual sweetness and an appealing oily texture, this wine gains remarkable depth and a luxurious mouthfeel. It is a rich and nuanced Gavi wine that unveils unexpected elegance and complexity without resorting to excessive power or opulence. It displays amazing varietal typicity, enhanced by that intriguing hint of salty minerality – a hallmark of Cortese di Gavi. The wine is currently in its prime, therefore we recommend enjoying it today or within the next year, as it will likely maintain its elegance but is best appreciated in its vibrant youth.

Given its rich and fragrant aromatic profile, this wine is remarkably versatile, as its crisp acidity and salty minerality will beautifully complement fresh shellfish, such as perfectly seared scallops with lemon butter or a delicate oyster platter. As an alternative, consider pairing it with a tuna tartare with avocado and a hint of ginger, where the wine’s fruit character will harmonize with the fish’s richness. Its elegant structure and slight sweetness also make it an ideal partner for white meats, like for example a pan-seared chicken breast with a creamy mushroom sauce or a traditional cotoletta alla milanese. Enjoy!

LA BOLLINA | Ventola | Gavi | 2023
variety: cortese
country: Italy
region: Piedmont | Gavi
rating: 93.7

La Bollina estate holds centuries of history, having been the distinguished residence of the Marquises Figari of Genoa. This rich heritage imbues the wines with a sense of place and tradition. A significant turning point for La Bollina was the arrival of the gifted oenologist Andrea Bernardini. His expertise, honed by working with top-level producers, has been instrumental in refining the estate’s winemaking practices, leading to a noticeable improvement across all their wines and a complete modernization of their cellar facilities.

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