VON WINNING | Forster Ungeheuer | Riesling GG | 2022
riesling

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Weingut Von Winning, nestled in the heart of Deidesheim in Germany’s Pfalz region, boasts a rich history dating back to 1849. However, it was under Leopold von Winning, in the early 20th century, that the estate truly began to define its legacy of excellence, renown particularly for its dry Rieslings. Today, under the visionary leadership of winemaker Stephan Attmann, Von Winning is revered as one of Germany’s leading estates and a proud member of the prestigious VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) – a testament to their unwavering commitment to quality and genuine expression of the Pfalz terroir in every bottle.Tonight we are going to review a genuine, single-varietal riesling wine from Pfalz, which is one of Germany’s most famous wine regions – Forster Ungeheuer Riesling GG 2022 by Weingut Von Winning. Riesling must be the world’s most misunderstood grape variety, as the resulting wines are unlike any others – light in alcohol, high in natural acidity, with the ability to transmit the terrior through its extract and minerality and, what makes it stand out from the crowd, riesling wines are capable of ageing for decades. Relative to other internationally grape varieties, riesling ripens quite early, so when planted in a hot climate its juice can be overripe and flabby, while in a cool climate it has the chance to stay on the vine late into the autumn, hence the german obsession with late harvest riesling wines.

Germany have championed single-varietal wines since the first mass plantings of riesling at Schloss Johannisberg in 1720 in Rheingau. Since then, Germany has become the world’s top riesling producer, developing a wide range of styles from dry and crisp to lusciously sweet. Dry styles of riesling are becoming increasingly popular – you can identify them by the term “trocken” on the label (which translates as “dry”). But the wine we are reviewing today is from a completely different category – the “GG” (Grosses Gewächs) designation on the label is Germany’s answer to the french Grand Cru, signifying a top-tier, dry wine sourced from the country’s best single vineyards – this is the highest classification level for dry wines for VDP members (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter e.V. – the association of german predicate wineries). Within the “GG” designation, the grapes must be sourced from a single vineyard – a Grosse Lage (great growth). None of the Großes Gewächs wines will be released before the first weekend of September of the year following the harvest. In other words, GG is the epitome of a top-tier riesling.

Tonight’s wine has been fermented and aged for over 12 months on fine lees (the dead yeast cells that are left over from the fermentation process) in large 500-liter oak casks – a technique that adds extra layers of complexity and texture while respecting the inherent qualities of the grape and its esteemed terroir.

Stretching southward along the Rhine Valley along the eastern slopes of the Haardt Mountains (an extension of France’s Vosges Mountains), Pfalz is one of Germany’s warmest and sunniest wine regions, often referred to as ‘Germany’s sunbelt’. Sheltered from cold winds and excessive rainfall by the mountains, the region enjoys a mild, almost Mediterranean climate with long, sunny summers and limited rainfall, allowing grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness while retaining natural freshness.The soils are highly diverse: sandstone, limestone, loess, loam, and basalt, giving winemakers a diverse mosaic of terroirs that influence the texture, minerality, and structure of the wines. This versatility supports both white and red grape varieties: Riesling reigns supreme here, producing ripe, rich and fruit-forward wines that have more nuance and extract than those of the Mosel or Rheingau regions. The warmer conditions also make Pfalz a stronghold for thin-skinned red varieties such as Spätburgunder (the german name for Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, and Portugieser. Other varieties such as Grauburgunder (german for Pinot Gris), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer are also widely planted.

color: deep yellow color
clarity: bright yellow hues

In the glass, the wine presents a captivating deep yellow color, hinting at its richness and depth. Bright topaz-yellow shades grace the rim of the glass, adding a vibrant luminosity that promises freshness and intensity.

intensity: rich & nuanced
fruit character: dried & dehydrated

On the nose, the wine is rich and nuanced, with a dry and dehydrated fruit character. In the foreground, a symphony of dried fruits unfolds, with notes of apricot, apple, pear, and quince, that are beautifully interwoven with vibrant citrus – lemon, grapefruit, and lemon zest, alongside alluring sweet undertones of honeycomb, raisins, and beeswax. Delicate herbal hints of wheat and hay add a rustic charm to this sophisticated aromatic profile. As the bouquet evolves, the background reveals a strong mineral presence, with evocative notes of slate, river stone, granite, dust, and graphite, all testament to the wine’s terroir. Subtle oaky nuances of sun-dried oakwood and oak tree bark emerge, complemented by touches of petroleum and sweet tree sap, contributing to an impressive aromatic complexity and depth.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: low | balance: good
finish: long | aftertaste: sharp & crisp

On the palate, the delivers a razor-sharp, crisp, and zesty sensation with its citrusy-mineral mouthfeel. It feels dry and well structured, marked by a vibrant energy. The acidity is razor sharp and exhilarating, yet perfectly integrated, acting as a spine that carries the wine’s structure. A well-integrated touch of alcoholic warmth adds substance and depth without ever overpowering the wine’s inherent elegance. What truly elevates this wine is a subtle, yet appealing, phenolic bitterness that introduces an extra layer of complexity and a nuanced texture, contributing to its sophisticated character. A touch of micro-oxidation is present, subtly enhancing the wine’s varietal character and adding an intriguing layer of savory complexity. The finish is long, culminating in a zesty-crisp aftertaste that echoes the wine’s aromatic profile, leaving a lasting impression of focus, tension, and true varietal expression. This wine is a masterful display of balance, where all elements converge to create a harmonious and intensely mineral-driven experience.

maturity: developing | needs time | drink now or age for 3 to 4 more years
verdict: great | a benchmark wine | a wine that has all the traits to become legendary

All in all, this wine stands as a textbook GG Riesling – firm, complex, and exceptionally well-structured. It showcases that blueprint zesty sharpness and razor-sharp vibrancy for which top-tier German Rieslings are celebrated. The careful integration of oak-derived flavours adds an extra layer of sophistication, complementing rather than dominating the wine’s varietal character. A subtle phenolic bitterness provides depth and texture, enriching the overall mouthfeel. This is a wine that champions varietal expression with a profound sense of place, rather than succumbing to oak opulence or overt alcoholic warmth. With its sharp and zesty profile, subtly enhanced by a touch of micro-oxidation that adds intriguing layers of flavor, it is, in every sense, a textbook Riesling wine. Currently in a developing phase and still youthfully vibrant, this wine needs more time to settle and round up, promising immense potential. We recommend cellaring it for another 3 to 4 years to allow its full potential to unfold, as it possesses the inherent ability to evolve into a truly great Riesling within the next decade or so. All in all, this is an absolutely magnificent Riesling that perfectly encapsulates the grandeur of the Pfalz region and the prestige of a Grosses Gewächs.

Given the razor-sharp acidity and profound minerality, this wine deserves a culinary pairing that would complement its intricate nuances. We would recommend pan-seared scallops with a meyer lemon and brown butter vinaigrette, served alongside a celery root purée. The wine’s vibrant acidity will cut through the richness of the scallops and the nutty brown butter, providing a refreshing counterpoint, while its mineral notes will resonate with the delicate sweetness of the scallop. The creamy celery root purée will also find a perfect balance with the wine’s smooth texture, creating a truly memorable and sophisticated dining experience. Enjoy!

VON WINNING | Forster Ungeheuer | Riesling GG | 2022
variety: riesling
country: Germany
region: Pfalz
rating: 95.4

Weingut Von Winning is considered one of the pioneers in the production of dry Rieslings in Germany, moving away from the sweeter styles that were traditionally associated with german wines. As a proud member of the VDP, their wines adhere to the highest quality standards, ensuring they are genuine expressions of the Pfalz terroir. The Forster Ungeheuer GG is a piece of history, hailing from one of Germany’s most historic and revered vineyard sites, this legendary wine famously graced the tables at the inauguration of the Suez Canal in 1869. It has also a favourite of the renowned writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and the ‘Iron Chancellor’ Otto von Bismarck, who famously declared: “Dieses Ungeheuer schmeckt mir ungeheuer” – ‘This colossal tastes colossally good’.
© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!