COTNARI MILLESIME | Grasa de Cotnari | 2018
grasa de cotnari

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Casa de Vinuri Cotnari, with roots tracing back to the reign of Stephen the Great, stands as one of Romania’s most historically significant wineries, particularly renowned for its exceptional sweet and sparkling wines. With the Millesime collection, the winery embarks on an ambitious journey to showcase the outstanding potential of its indigenous grape varieties in the realm of traditional method sparkling wines. This wine line represents a profound commitment to artisanal craftsmanship, producing limited-edition sparkling wines that pay homage to the Cotnari vineyard’s rich legacy and unique terroir.

Tonight we are going to review a mesmerizing sparkling wine from eastern Romania, more precisely from the famous Cotnari vineyards of Moldova wine region – Cotnari Millesime Grasa de Cotnari 2018 by Casa de Vinuri Cotnari. This particular wine is adorned with captivating artwork by the celebrated romanian artist Florin Stoiciu, symbolizing a beautiful fusion of viticultural excellence and artistic expression. The wine is crafted entirely from grasa de cotnari grapes, and is produced by the authentic méthode traditionelle technique (also known as metodo classico or the champenoise method), the same way the famous Champagne wines are made in France, with a long period of second fermentation in the bottle, where the wine spends a staggering 64 months on fine lees (sur lie ageing), followed by an additional 2 months of refinement after disgorgement, which allowed it to develop an extra layer of aromatic complexity and the much desired creaminess on the palate.

When it comes to sparkling wines, not all of them are created the same way. One of the key differences lies in how the bubbles are formed, specifically, whether the wine undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle (traditional method) or in large pressurized tanks (tank method, also known as charmat method). In the tank method the secondary fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks rather than individual bottles. This process is quicker, more cost-effective, and preserves the wine’s vibrant fruit character and freshness. The result is a more aromatic, easy-drinking sparkling wine with crisp acidity and minimal yeasty complexity (think of Prosecco). On the other hand, the traditional method is a more time-intensive process, as the second fermentation happens in the bottle, where the wine also ages on the fine lees (the dead yeast particles) for extended periods, from several months to several years. This slow aging builds extra layers of complexity on the nose and creates a creamy textures on the palate (think of classic sparkling wines like Champagne, Cava, or Franciacorta).

Grasa de Cotnari is a very old romanian grape variety, cultivated from ancient times in western Moldova and responsible for the once-famous sweet wines of Cotnari. It is a drought-sensitive variety, with medium resistance to frost, low resistance to powdery mildew and particularly sensitive to grey rot fungus. It can be vinified in a the whole range of wine styles, from dry and semi-dry, to sweet and even noble rot sweet wines. Produced almost exclusively in its native region and rarely encountered elsewhere, grasa de cotnari remains one of Romania’s hidden viticultural treasures, offering an authentic expression of the country’s winemaking heritage.

The Moldova wine region, stretching between the Eastern Carpathians and the Prut River, is the country’s largest viticultural area. Its temperate-continental climate is characterized by warm summers, cold winters, and long autumns that allow grapes to ripen gradually while preserving freshness and aromatic complexity. The region’s rolling hills provide favorable sun exposure and natural air circulation, while soils vary from fertile chernozem and clay-loam to limestone-rich and sandy deposits, creating a diverse range of terroirs. Moldova is particularly renowned for its aromatic white varieties, including Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, and Grasă de Cotnari, as well as increasingly successful plantings of international grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
Cotnari sub-region, situated in the northwestern part of the Moldova, is one of Romania’s oldest and most prestigious wine-growing areas. Protected by surrounding hills and forests, this small region benefits from a unique microclimate characterized by warm summers, long autumns, and frequent morning mists that favor slow ripening and, in suitable vintages, the development of noble rot. Vineyards are planted on gentle slopes at elevations generally ranging between 150 and 300 m.a.s.l., on soils composed primarily of clay, marl, sandstone, and limestone-rich deposits that provide both water retention and mineral complexity. Cotnari is particularly famous for its indigenous grape varieties, including Grasă de Cotnari, Frâncușă, Fetească Albă, and Tămâioasă Românească, which thrive in these conditions. The wines are known for their aromatic intensity, vibrant acidity, and remarkable longevity, ranging from fresh and elegant dry wines to the region’s legendary sweet wines, whose richness and complexity have earned Cotnari a place among Europe’s most prolific wine terroirs.

color: pale yellow color
clarity: straw-green hues

The wine presents a pale yellow color, shimmering with delicate straw-green shades at the rim of the glass. A persistent stream of fine, elegant bubbles rises steadily from the base of the flute, forming a delicate and creamy mousse at the surface.

intensity: rich & citrusy
fruit character: ripe

The aromatic profile is rich and expressive, with a pronounced intensity. It opens with a vibrant, citrusy-fresh notes that dominates the foreground, offering an invigorating burst of lemon, lime, pomelo, and green grapefruit. These primary fruit aromas are seamlessly interwoven with elegant autolytic hints – a direct result of its extensive aging on fine lees, revealing notes of freshly baked baguette, bread crumbs, a touch of dark bread, and bread crust – all underlined by subtle hints of rye and yeast. As the wine breathe, a sophisticated background emerges, displaying refreshing green fruit notes of green apple, green pear, and gooseberry. These are complemented by nuanced herbal undertones of dried hay, fresh wheat, and a whisper of thyme, adding an extra layer of complexity alongside elegant touches of dough and a refined leesy nuance, creating an evolving bouquet that is both invigorating and intriguing.

sweetness: dry | acidity: high | alcohol: medium+ | tannin: none | balance: good
finish: medium+ | aftertaste: crisp

The palate mirrors the nose with a refreshingly-crisp and citrusy-zesty character, delivering a vibrant and bright mouthfeel. This is a brut sparkling wine, with exuberant acidity that provides a lively backbone. With a lean and ample body, the wine has a nicely integrated touch of alcoholic warmth that contributes to a harmonious and rounded mouthfeel without ever overpowering its delicate nuances. With a balanced and creamy mouthfeel, the wine feels fresh and crisp, displaying a very good varietal typicity, expressing its inherent freshness and vibrant citrus core. The mid-palate reveals appealing autolytic tones that add depth and textural sophistication, making this a textbook vintage brut sparkling wine. The finish is long and culminates with a crisp and invigorating aftertaste, leaving an enduring impression of vitality and a desire for yet another sip.

maturity: developing  | drink now or within the next 3 to 4 years
verdict: fine | an excellent wine | a wine of premium quality with good ageing potential

All in all, this is a crisp, fresh and well-structured sparkling wine that showcases the immense potential of Grasa de Cotnari in traditional method sparkling production. It presents a captivating citrusy-yeasty aromatic profile, with appealing autolytic tones that add significant depth and textural sophistication. This is a well-balanced and harmonious Méthode Traditionnelle brut sparkling wine, clearly focused around elegance and precision rather than sheer opulence. While it may lack some of the overt finesse and seamless elegance sometimes associated with top-tier Grand Cru Champagne, it offers an authentic charm and a unique interpretation of traditional method sparkling, rooted in its origins. Currently, the wine is in a developing stage, and while it delivers immense pleasure today with its vibrant freshness, its inherent structure and vitality strongly suggest a promising future. We highly recommend aging it for an additional 3 to 4 years to allow its complexity to further unfold, revealing even deeper layers of tertiary aromas and a more profound textural richness, making it well worth the wait.

Given its exuberant acidity and pronounced citrusy and autolytic notes, this sparkling wine would make an incredibly versatile and exciting food companion. It would create a delightful contrast with the richness of pan-seared mahi-mahi fillets, where the wine’s zesty character would cut through the fish’s texture, cleansing the palate. For an exquisite pairing that creates a ‘wow-effect,’ consider serving it alongside raw red shrimp or a platter of briny oysters, allowing the wine’s invigorating crispness to perfectly counterbalance the natural saltiness and delicate sweetness of the seafood. Cheers!
COTNARI MILLESIME | Grasa de Cotnari | 2018
variety: grasa de cotnari
country: Romania
region: Moldova | Cotnari
rating: 94.0

The Millesime collection was launched originally under the theme “The Art of Champagne, Champagne as Art”. While mass-market sparkling wines are often released early, this one took a massive test of patience, as it spent a staggering 64 months (more than 5 years) aging on fine lees inside the bottle before it was finally disgorged. To celebrate the sheer patience of this project, the entire Millesime collection was officially debuted in late 2024 at an exclusive event held inside Romania’s famous Artmark Auction House in Bucharest. It was designed to blur the line between elite romanian viticulture and fine gallery art.

© The WineStatistics ratings are based solely on our own knowledge of the world of wine and on our personal wine tastes, which may, or may not, differ from yours – the reader. Just remember that there are no absolutes of right and wrong in wine appreciation. Cheers!